I realize I actually have a blog category called Services already.

Now that I am 12 days shy of living in the UAE for two whole years, I thought it would be a good time to remind myself of some of the things we have here that make life more comfortable. Most of them are not without their hints of exploitation or legal violations, but such is the nature of life in these parts… I try my best to be good to these people, if I avail of the services (which in most cases I don’t, hello KFC home delivery).

  • Housecleaner – we have had an Ethiopian woman clean our place every Friday morning for almost as long as we’ve been here. She is great.
  • Gardener – since we moved to the villa we have a guy who comes to trim things, spread fertilizer, adjust sprinklers, etc.
  • Drinking water delivery
  • Delivery of whatever at work – anything too “heavy,” I can get a guy to bring it to my office on a cart. Like, if I bring a cake to work I can make someone get it out of my car and deliver it to my office.
  • Full service at gas stations, usually including cleaning the windows
  • Grocery packing and putting of any shopping parcels in your car for you–not always possible when the shops are super busy
  • Booze delivery – we have not used this one yet, but if you buy over a certain amount from the grey market shop they will bring it to your house
  • In-home pedicure, haircuts, massage, etc.
  • Pharmacy delivery – just call. Many things that would require a prescription in the states don’t here, so you can make them bring you antibiotics at 10pm if you want
  • Fast food delivery – get your Burger King fries delivered!

There are more, most of which are probably not on my radar because they are too ridiculous. And a lot of these require waiting forever or 10,000 phone calls to give them directions.

[This is a draft I wrote a long time ago and forgot to publish. I am medicated now and a million times happier.]

As I come out from the fog of yet another transnational jet lag, I find myself being steamrollered by the evil triumvirate of anxiety, depression, and insomnia.

The week before I left the US after a really nice six weeks’ vacation, I was already not sleeping and stressing out about the life waiting for me in Dubai. The biggest problem with it is the lack of long-established social relationships, something I need more time than the average person to develop anyway, and problem no. 2 is the ongoing instability of my work situation. I think I’m over the jet lag now, and back to that crappy insomnia.

I am aware of all the many tricks for dealing with insomnia without drugs, but they aren’t working for me and never really have. It’s the annoying voice I can’t stop as I’m about to fall asleep, if I even get that far after counting down from 100 or reading (and usually failing to concentrate).

And all this is pretty typical among the expat community.

I am planning to see a doctor soon for some help. This doesn’t work like it does in the states though, from what I have heard. Often doctors can only prescribe medication for a month at a time, and after a short period like three months, you either have to hope for a referral for psychiatry or stop treatment. As far as I know you need more time than that just to get the balance sorted out. I’ve also heard that employers and insurance companies are not supportive of people with mental health issues here. For example, there is no medical privacy law, so as soon as you submit reimbursement paperwork, anyone around the office could potentially know your situation.

I am still going to give it a try. Getting fired would solve some of my problems!

For most of my adult life I have dealt with some combination of these things, but rarely none of them. Thanks to my midwest, highly Germanic upbringing, I am pretty good at hiding it, and with all the years of experience, I am also good at coping, with things like healthy eating, exercise, and other daily routines. Is it ridiculous of me to think that if I wasn’t living here I might not be in this situation though? That’s one thought that crosses the mind in the wee dark hours…

I quickly became uncomfortable writing openly about my job in Dubai after moving here in January 2010. There is still a lot I would rather keep private, but I think a large part of it is “typical” to the expatriate work/life experience. In short:

  • Frustration with communication problems
  • Different expectations for leadership and organization
  • Different cultural values
  • Volatility and constant restructuring*

All of these things plus personal stuff have made me spend a lot of time reflecting on what I want to do next. I am signed on through July 31, 2013, and if things continue to remain so unpredictable with management and expectations, I could resign at some point before that time. Right now I want to stick it out until the end of the contract at least, because we still have a lot of work to do getting ourselves buffered for potentially living with no jobs for a while whenever we do leave. I am generally a hopeful and trusting kind of person and I haven’t given up despite just wrapping up pretty much the most awful year of my professional life so far. Rodney likes his job and still has a lot to learn there, Maeve is getting a great experience going to school with kids from everywhere, and there are some other really good personal advantages I’ve mentioned here before like travel.

Sometimes I think going back to school for further archives/local history education would be a good thing, but one reason we are here in the first place is my student loans that just won’t die. To get that paid off and then start all over again would just be sad.

At this moment, if I had my way, I believe I’d like to take my career away from being a Lone Arranger once and for all. While I have always valued the autonomy and range of daily roles to choose from, I think going forward I would really like to work directly with a group of peers, and to have a more specialized role within a larger archival operation. I am not sure academia is the place for me; in fact going in the historical society/state archives/big public library direction is and has always been really appealing. I would like to split my time between processing and reference somehow. I really like being buried in collections and establishing order, but I also like being asked to help find things. There is something really rewarding about providing answers – an immediate feedback that you don’t get elsewhere in the field.

What I definitely don’t want to do is electronic records management.

And ideally Rodney will get the next big family-supporting job so I can have at least a few months’ break wherever we go next.

Will the world please open up the right opportunity for us when we need it?

*This could be due to the fact that I’m in a very young organization, in a very young country, and how things “should” be done hasn’t been tested over decades or centuries of experience.

As an American it’s always fun going to countries where you can walk into a pharmacy and get 95% of the drugs that at home cost a fortune and require a prescription. The UAE is one of those – with the obvious exception of narcotics, birth control, and some other stuff. I was so happy to find that the $150 allergy meds I was prescribed a couple months before we left could be picked up for less than $20, anywhere, without a doctor’s order or proof of residence or employment or anything else.

But there are big annoyances that balance this out.

For example, a lot of personal care products are often only sold in pharmacies, or in blocked off sections in the grocery store where you have to pay separately. Even things like shampoo or saline eye drops are not on the normal shelves half the time. So you find yourself going into the pharmacy for these kinds of staple items.

The hugest annoyance is the workers in the pharmacies. Not so much the lab-coat-wearing person behind the counter but the roving staff that seem to be in any of the larger pharmacies in the malls. Two or three of them will corner you as soon as you walk in and ask what you want. If you say “shampoo” they ask you one or two questions about your hair and then take you to the one product that you should buy. “This will help stop your hair from falling out.” But I never said I had a problem with that! I get the feeling that they have been told to push particular products, or that I’m just supposed to trust their choice because after all we’re in a pharmacy. But no.

At home I am very used to being able to browse for lotion or vitamins or toothpaste at my whim. Maybe I want to smell some of it first! Or have a minute to read the label. So I have taken to stating that I am just looking around, and this is met by their looks of confusion. They really seem to be used to just giving people a product, no discussion, no considering options, and the shoppers pay and go on with their day.

One of many ironies of Dubai is that when you need help nobody is anywhere around, but when you want to be left alone there are a bunch of people bothering you.

So, today it’s been a whole year since we moved to Dubai.

On this day last year, we had to get up and go to a big breakfast meeting in the hotel with all the senior administration of my work. The chicken sausages and really all the foods were disgusting. And the combo of jet lag after 24 hours of travel and new job nerves made me hesitant to let Maeve have the microphone when we were supposed to go around introducing ourselves and our families, even though she wanted to.

Now, I think I should have let her.

A year on, it’s not super easy to sum up what this experience has been yet. I didn’t even think about things like this at all during my two years in Japan, I was just so curious and young and free. But after I came back I needed another year, at least, to process it all. In the case of this UAE thing, I already know there is going to be a need for some serious detoxing when we leave, whenever that is.

Primarily, my job is Not Easy. Before this job I had a couple years of working part-time in a flexible place with really nice people, and a couple years before that of being home doing the important work of raising a kid. So of course there’s a bit of the adjustment back to the 40+hour life and feeling like I have even less chance to do the things I’m personally interested in (hello, not one knitting project finished last year). The job itself, well I’m done getting into those specifics here and if you really want to know you’ll have to email me. I guess I’ll say this: going to a geographic region to work as essentially the only one of your professional kind is possibly a cool opportunity, but it is also possibly extremely lonely, and often problematic when nobody knows how to or even wants to support what they’ve hired you to do.

I don’t regret this move, yet, because with our life before this it would have been hard to have five weeks off in the summer, or to go to Europe for a few weeks in the fall, or to see Egypt for Christmas. It would have taken much longer to finally get that stupid student loan paid off. Maeve would have had some tiny attempts at diversity in her schooling but nothing, nothing at all like what she gets at her school here. Same with us. Rodney loves it when the local patients unload about how they hate their husbands, and the South African accents among hospital staff. Sometimes they get asked to help out with studies for the sheik’s horses. And we get to see camels wandering around all the time. We have more friends here that aren’t American than that are. It is nice to be a minority in this regard.

We really have no idea what we are going to do after this. My contract ends July 31, 2012, and I could renew it if I’ve been fully possessed by the demons by then. But why not Singapore or Idaho or Australia if they’ll have us? It is fun to daydream about the possibilities, as long as we leave the worldwide economic situation out.

What I want to focus on in the next year is getting out of my head a little more, not being so hung up on the stuff that is shitty about living here and constantly trying to find resolutions to things I just really can’t control. So that’s the goal.

Maybe I need to get the yarn out again.

I like wrap-ups, debriefings, tallies, annual reports, statistical compilations. I have a kind of half-baked one from last year. This time around Rodney and I spent a little while thinking of some highlights from 2010.

The year of course got off on a rather exciting note when we moved to Dubai in January. It saved us from financial ruin in the face of Rodney’s layoff and the miserable Michigan economy, two things we really didn’t have the resources to ride out with our then-lifestyle beyond six or eight months. It was with a lot of hope that going to the other side of the world would give us some interesting opportunities to meet people, travel, maybe do some different professional things. It’s been a very big letdown in that last category for me, but the other two things have been great, almost good enough to cancel the homesickness once in a while.

OK now for the data.

Number of…

Visits it took to the Dubai IKEA before I had memorized the floor plan: 6
Times I ironed cloth napkins: 1
Times I will ever iron cloth napkins again in my life: 0
My toenails that partially fell off two years ago after a heavy rock incident that finally grew back: 1
Bathrooms in our apartment: 4 (still)
Our toilet seats that have fully detached themselves from their respective toilets: 1
Said detached toilet seats that require dissembly of the entire toilet to reattach: 1
US states we visited: 6+DC
Countries we visited: 6 (US, UAE, Austria, Germany, Czech Republic, Egypt)
Egypt visa
Mattresses I bought: 4
Approximate dollars per year that my kid’s school costs (not including transportation, uniforms, and other assorted expenses): $11,000
Dollars of kid’s school costs paid by my employer (because we couldn’t be here without this benefit): $11,000
Schools in Dubai that are pretty much a racket: 100%
Times I wore socks, tights, pantyhose, all year: ~20
Truly awesome restaurant meals we’ve had in Dubai: 0
Times I got a package delivery “Final Notice” in my PO Box without ever getting any previous notices: 4
Haircuts I got: 1 (and that was in the US this summer)
Knitting projects I finished: 0
Sewing projects I finished: 3
Number of inches Maeve grew: 4
Times we’ve been to the movie theater in Dubai: 0
Times my first boss in Dubai (an American!) texted me before 7am to tell me what to wear to work that day: 2
Cars we have bought/sold/rented: 1/2/5
Major zoos and aquariums we have been to: 5
Organized races that Rodney ran: 6
Months Maeve has been able to swim in an outdoor pool this year: 12
Pool girl
Times I had to cover my head/hair: 0
Times people came to visit us from outside the UAE: 1

Who’s coming in 2011?

Global Village is this annual thing out on Emirates Road toward Jebel Ali that is part fun fair, part flea market, part souk, and all local experience.

It only runs from November through February (Dubai “winter”) when the evenings are super pleasant, and it’s inevitably super crowded. There are several country pavilions where you can buy traditional goods, mostly home decor, certain foods, and a lot of clothes. One of my favorite things about this part of the world is that everybody seems to have some traditional underwear that goes with their traditional garments, and Global Village is the place to go if your Kuwaiti longjohns have worn a hole. They are always elegantly stapled to the wall.

The countries featured include Egypt, Lebanon, Kuwait, Yemen, Qatar, Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (way too much oud smoke and tacky clothing, but a nice spice vendor in there), Turkey (where the sellers gripe about how relentless the Arabs are with their bargaining), India (tons of pashminas, clothes, bedcovers), Syria, and weirdly, Cambodia and Thailand. I may have left out a couple–of course the UAE has one too.

Last night it was wall to wall Arabs, and I was thinking about things I might have attended in the states, like Lollapalooza or the Taste of Chicago, that felt the same in terms of crowds. Although the gov controls most of the media here and therefore some of the truly bad news doesn’t get out (especially in the English stuff), you don’t hear about shootings or robbery or any other thing that might be expected elsewhere.

You also do not see hardly anybody taking pictures. I have to conclude that it is an Arab or Muslim thing to not want to be photographed, because often we are asked not to in various places. I’m afraid of getting suddenly deported for that or other reasons, so I did not take any including people at Global Village. Below is a tempting display from the Saudi spice vendor, and a picture of some beautiful lights in a Turkish booth.





Today I went with my friend Ida to the so-called Blue Souk in Sharjah, the next-door, more conservative Emirate. It was my first visit to a true souk and a very interesting experience.

My friend has lived here for eight years or so, and met a textile importer not long after first coming. She smartly stayed friends with him and went to him for gifts many times. They built up trust, and he gives her good prices and honest information about the carpets and stuff. This has expanded to the carpet shops on either side of this guy’s, where other types of things, like wool camel saddles, are also for sale.

We mostly looked at Indian patchwork wall hangings. I learned about some of the specific embroidery and beading techniques. You can easily get these patchwork things at your local hippie shop and maybe World Market, but no one there would know what the stitching is called, what part of India it’s from, or how to distinguish the more complicated methods. Same for everything else sold in the souk: a guy from Afghanistan, who just flew back from Afghanistan, is going to tell you about and maybe sell you something that was made in Afghanistan. Someone will serve you mint tea. It is good.

Not much is made in Dubai, but if you want things from Iran or Iraq (maybe some looted relics?) or Yemen or Oman, and of course India and Pakistan, this is the place.

The part that is tricky is the psychology of the sale. They will spend hours with you. Here they aren’t as pushy as India for example (which to my mind makes paying a little extra to buy in Dubai worth it) but the subtle effort became a bit clearer the longer we hung around. I have a long way to go before I’m as comfortable with it as my friend is, but at least I have a foot in the door with Rashid the carpet guy.

Here are some of the wall hangings we looked at, all rejects due to too many shiny bits and not the right shade of red. I got one not shown for my sister though, and a Persian block-printed tablecloth from another shop.


Now that I have a kid, I’m not sure I could agree that your own life shouldn’t stop when you become a parent. This might work for people who are way more hardcore about homeschooling/unschooling and a generally more nontraditional existence, but not me. My life has changed, a lot. But I do like to think that you can still do some of the things you used to do before the kid, you just have to adjust your expectations. For example, international travel! In case you totally fear doing this with your child, it is possible, and it can even be great.

We just came back from two and a half weeks in central Europe. Maeve is four and a half and hasn’t been in school for the whole summer, so her tolerance for structure is pretty slim at the moment. We took advantage of this on our trip, with flexible bedtimes and stuff. Some other things that helped us enjoy our trip:

-Being middle class. It’s pretty hard to do this well on a shoestring, in our experience. You have to be willing to spend a little more for some of the conveniences, but I think it evens out because you will not blow all your money on bar tabs or even tons of cultural activities. Why?

-Scale. One cultural institution a day was our limit. Even with conscientious preparation, little “assignments” (see how many dogs you can count in the paintings, find the flowers in the stained glass, etc.), and a stash of hard candy to dole out in the wilder moments, Maeve did not tolerate a lot of museum-browsing. The rest of the day you look for a playground or a park, linger over meals with your one or two delicious but not drunk-inducing beers, let the kid be the guide for a while. Because really, French gardens are still interesting, and playgrounds with equipment like giant wooden bees are also something new. It is a bonus to figure out where the resident expats take their kids, and then you can make friends while they all play.

About this I’d also like to say that even if you are not doing 30 castles back to back in a day, you are still being surrounded by a different culture and that in and of itself makes it worth it for me.

-Hotels. I think it was a totally worthwhile expense to stay not in the backpacker dives we might once have enjoyed but pensions with breakfast, decent private bathrooms, and more quiet atmospheres. Odds are you will not be out late with a kid, so having a place that’s comfortable in the evenings is nice for all.

-Some technology. A laptop with a bunch of entertainment pre-loaded is very handy. When you are stuck in the hotel room at night with only Czech game shows and your kid is asleep, you will want “Hot Tub Time Machine” or some other crap to relax with. This is valuable even without an internet connection (and in fact maybe you want to leave that behind while you travel), in case somebody gets sick, or the weather gets bad. Additionally, we have an iPod touch that I stocked with several episodes of an old Moomin animation, a ton of vintage Gumby cartoons, a Tinkerbell movie, and a selection of quasi-educational games. This we used mostly in restaurants when the fun of coloring wore off, because in a beer garden on a perfect late summer day, you want to linger… and not chase your kid constantly…

-Trains and buses and boats, oh my. Renting a car is for suckers unless you really have to, at least in Europe or Japan. It is a lot of fun to hop on the streetcar in Prague, or take the funicular, or have your daily gelato on a boat down the Danube. Every day a different means of getting around!

-Snacks. I personally love grocery shopping anywhere, anytime, especially while traveling. Visiting the supermarket or a farmer’s market is a perfectly reasonable cultural experience in my book. We stopped at the markets whenever we had a chance, and letting Maeve look at the different cuts of meat, shapes of bread, etc. was always fun. She usually got to help choose some of the snacks. And this is a way that we ensured she was getting something decent to eat each day instead of just sausages and gelato on the street. Which she would have been perfectly happy with.

-Coloring books. Maeve is a coloring freak these days, which I know not every kid is. The way we kept this exciting was to pick up a new coloring book or two every place we went. In Bavaria there’s a one-euro store called TEDi (which has a lot of other weird and interesting cheap junk by the way), so we got a malbuch and even a Disney princess book that had all the captions in German. It was fun talking about Schneewitchen. Coloring got us through a lot of restaurant and train times, and even was great for hotel relaxing.

-The stroller. Four and a half is pretty big for a stroller, but this was the Maclaren’s final hurrah, we think, and completely worth it. It even handled the cobblestone sidewalks and European dog merde effortlessly. It was great for making museum and castle visits a little more tolerable, plus we could sometimes chuck our bag or jacket underneath it, or in it when Maeve wanted to walk.

-Flexibility. Other than a basic plan for what towns/hotels we’d be in and when, It was a lot easier for us to decide each day what we wanted to do when we got up, based on the weather, how we’d slept, and what we learned about the options once we got there. I had a short list of things I hoped to do, but I didn’t get too attached, and in the end, I did manage to do everything on the list. One day in Prague, it was a national holiday and a lot of stuff was closed. We hadn’t figured that in, but we made a day trip out of it, to the town of Tabor, and it was great.

So with one kid, we did make a few weeks in Europe a really good time for everybody. Maybe I’m writing this because I hope some of my friends in Michigan will travel with us one of these days, I don’t know, but really, it is worth a try.

Photos on Flickr as soon as I make the Dubai internet cooperate.

Some statistics from the overly busy, but very worthwhile, five week vacation we had back to the US not too long ago…

Total flight time: 35 hours

Total layover time (all in Atlanta): 5 hours

Times the interior of the Delta airplane looked like it was going to crash down on us: 1

Quality of Delta service, 1 – 10 (10=good, from American traveler used to shitty, basic airline service): 8, but the first flight DXB-ATL was a 4

Miles driven for road trips: about 2,200

States visited: 6 (MI, OH, PA, MD, WV, IN) + District of Columbia

Geocaches found: 8

U-Picks visited: 2 (blueberries, peaches)

Pies eaten: 0

Beaches visited: 4

Cultural institutions visited: 9 (Portage District Library, Petoskey Public Library, Mackinac Island Public Library, Fort Mackinac, National Zoo, Seneca Creek State Park [MD], Smithsonian Postal Museum and Hirschorn Gallery, Antietam National Battlefield). Not included: other county/local parks; Trader Joe’s.

Family reunions attended: 1

Water parks visited: 1

Number of family reunions held at water parks: 1

Beds slept in: 11 (including three air mattresses)

Times each of us got a head cold: 1

Number of days the head cold lasted: 2

Times we got stuck in the rain: 1

Number of umbrellas purchased: 2

Number of umbrellas brought back to Dubai: 2

Pounds of checked luggage brought back to Dubai: 145

Number of Disney movies Maeve watched on the plane: 3 billion

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